In archery whether for target shooting, bowhunting, or 3D competition the difference between a “good” shot and a great shot often comes down to your bow sight setup and adjustment. A poorly aligned sight can lead to frustration, inconsistent groups, and missed opportunities in the field. On the other hand, a finely tuned sight setup becomes an extension of your aim and lets you shoot with confidence.
In this guide, we’ll walk through everything from choosing a sight, mounting it properly, leveling the axes, sighting in pins, and fine adjustments for varying angles and distances. Whether you are a newcomer or a seasoned hunter looking for a refresher, this article will help you dial in your sight system for maximum accuracy.
Before jumping into steps, it’s worth understanding why sight setup matters so much:
Parallax & alignment: Misalignment of sight housing or bubble levels can cause your aiming point to shift as distance increases.
Consistent reference: A stable, repeatable sight setup gives you the same reference point each shot.
Angle compensation: In bowhunting terrain (uphill/downhill), mis-adjusted axes result in error when aiming.
Efficiency in the field: You don’t want to fiddle mid-hunt a properly set sight works under stress.
As GoHunt emphasizes, many accuracy problems at longer range stem from poorly leveled axes, especially second and third axes of the sight.
Types of Bow Sights & Their Differences
Understanding your sight type is key to correct setup. Here are common types:
Fixed-pin (multi-pin) sights – multiple pins (e.g. 3, 5, 7) each representing a distance (20, 30, 40, etc.).
Single-pin adjustable (slider) sights – one pin that you adjust up/down for target distance.
Digital/optical or “advanced” sights – with built-in range finders or electronic adjustment.
Each type demands the same fundamentals of alignment and leveling, though the process of “sighting in” differs. Many of the principles below apply to all.
Tools & Preparations You’ll Need
Before you begin, gather:
Allen wrench set (usually supplied with sight)
Long carpenter’s level (12″ to 36″ or more)
String level or small “bubble on line” level
Plumb bob (string + weight)
Bow vise or stable bow rest
Target and plenty of arrows
Tape, paper target, or line target
Optional: sight graph or chart for pin spacing
Having a stable platform and accurate levels is critical.
Step 1: Proper Mounting of the Sight
Start by mounting the sight to the bow riser:
Center Shot & Rest Setup Before adjusting the sight, make sure your bow’scenter shot (arrow rest alignment) is correct. The arrow shaft should pass properly with minimal clearance on both sides (left/right). This ensures the arrow path is straight. (Many tuning guides discuss rest alignment, which precedes sight work).
Fit the Mounting Holes Use the manufacturer’s screws, snug them lightly — don’t fully tighten yet. Leave some room for adjustments.
Approximate Vertical and Horizontal Position – Move the sight slightly up/down to center your pins along the arrow line. – Center it left/right relative to your riser face. – Use washers or shims if you need micro-adjustments for centering.
Once it’s roughly in position, tighten screws just enough for minor movement we’ll fine tune later.
Step 2: Leveling the Bow and First Axis Adjustment
Leveling the Bow Itself
Your bow must be plumb (vertical) before you level the sight:
Lay a long level on a flat “face” of the riser (inside limb pocket, limb pocket wall, etc.) and adjust until it reads level.
If you don’t have a vise, use shims, clamps, or a level against a wall to keep the bow steady.
First Axis (Cant or Plumb) Adjustment
The first axis addresses the “twist” or cant of the sight mounting.
On sliding/adjustable sights, the mounting bracket sometimes can lean left or right (i.e. not perfectly vertical). That is a first axis issue.
Remove or loosen the sight head, and with a string level or small level, ensure the slide rail or mounting bar is vertical.
Some fixed-pin sights don’t include first axis adjustment, but you can shim behind the bracket screws if needed to correct minor lean.
If first axis is off, your sight’s vertical motion will cause left/right drift of pins as you move the slider up/down. Getting first axis plumb is the foundation for accurate longitudinal aiming.
Step 3: Second Axis – Vertical Leveling of Pins
Often considered the most important axis, the second axis ensures your sight bar or pins are truly vertical with regard to gravity.
Use the sight’s built-in bubble, or mount a bubble level on your sight frame.
With your bow held perfectly vertical (i.e. your bow is level), adjust the second axis screw(s) so the bubble reads level.
If the bubble is off, gently turn the adjustment screws until it aligns.
Re-check after each turn, and ensure your bow is still level when doing so.
If the second axis is off, your arrows will drift left or right as distance increases (i.e. error magnifies). As GoHunt explains, second axis error is a frequent culprit in groups that shift horizontally at longer range.
Step 4: Third Axis – Angle Compensation
The third axis is often the most underutilized but critical when shooting at angles (uphill, downhill, steep terrain). It compensates for the sight housing tilting forward/backwards relative to the bow.
Setup a plumb bob (string + weight) so it hangs free near your target area.
Draw your bow to full draw in level (horizontal) shot position, align your pins to the string, and see if the bubble remains centered.
Now shift your aim angle (e.g. 45° uphill or downhill) while keeping your bow properly held. Watch the bubble; if it shifts during angled shots, your third axis is off.
Adjust the third axis screw(s) (usually a tilt adjustment on the sight) until the bubble stays centered throughout angled aiming motions.
If your sight lacks built-in third axis adjustment, you may shim the mounting plate (front/back) to approximate the needed correction. But ultimately, a sight with a proper third axis makes angled shots significantly more accurate.
After adjusting, test multiple angles and fine-tweak so that the bubble remains stable.
Step 5: Sighting-in (Zeroing) Your Pins
With your sight axes correctly leveled, it’s time to sight in your pins for specific distances.
Strategy: Use a “Line Target” or Graph Method
Using a line target helps maintain consistency when zeroing multiple pins. You tape a straight line (horizontal) on your target so you can adjust arrow impact precisely.
Here’s a typical workflow:
Start Close (10-20 Yards) Begin with your top pin (e.g. 20 yard pin). From a close distance like 10–20 yards, shoot 2–3 arrows aiming at center. Adjust until your shots consistently hit the line.
Back Up to 30 Yards Once the 20 yard pin is hitting, move to 30 yards with the 30 yard pin. Adjust until arrows land on the same line.
Horizontal Alignment / Left-Right Adjustment Rotate your line target to vertical and use the 30 yard pin (or middle pin) to adjust left/right. Most sight systems allow rack adjustment (all pins shift left/right together). Adjust so that your entire pattern is centered.
Set Further Pins (40, 50, 60, etc.) Using a sight graph or chart, plot your pin spacing and adjust the remaining pins accordingly. A sight graph helps extrapolate distances based on arrow flight curve.
Return and Revalidate After setting all pins, go back to your 20 and 30 yard pins and verify that they still hit. Small adjustments may be needed.
Tips During Sighting
Use the same anchor point, draw length, and form each shot.
Fire small groups (2–3 arrows) before adjusting; avoid over-adjusting after one shot.
Use micro adjustments (small screw turns) rather than big jumps.
Keep notes on how much adjustment per distance change (helps future tuning).
Once sighted, lock down screws carefully (but don’t overtighten; recheck levels).
Fine-Tuning & Advanced Adjustments
Even after basic sighting, further fine-tuning can enhance performance.
If you carry your bow in a pack, vibrations can shift small screws — revalidate before each hunt or competition.
Common Troubleshooting & Mistakes
Problem
Symptom
Likely Cause & Fix
Arrows drift left/right as distance increases
Second axis off; bubble misaligned
Re-level second axis; adjust left/right rack shift
Arrows move diagonally (not purely vertical)
First axis skew or third axis tilt
Re-check first axis plumb; adjust third axis for tilt
Pins don’t correlate well with distances
Poor pin spacing or sight graph off
Re-graph, adjust spacing, re-zero
Bubble shifts on angled shots
Third axis not adjusted
Adjust third axis while simulating angle shots
Sight shifts after travel or heavy use
Screws loosened
Use thread locker (low strength), re-tighten, verify levels
Canting the bow when shooting
Inconsistent shooter form
Use a bow level or teach yourself to keep bow vertical
A well setup sight greatly reduces these issues but vigilance pays off.
Shooting Angles & Field Use Considerations
In the real world, you’ll often shoot uphill, downhill, or from uneven terrain. Here are tips:
Trust your third axis adjustment: when it’s well tuned, your bubble should remain stable even on angled shots.
Use the “cosine rule” approach: your effective horizontal distance is less than your line-of-sight. The sighting system should account for that.
Practice from elevated stands or slopes to train your eye and your equipment setup.
Document your pin offsets and usage under different slope angles; some archers carry supplemental charts.
Conclusion
A well-tuned bow sight setup is the foundation of accuracy, consistency, and confidence in archery. By carefully mounting the sight, adjusting first/second/third axes, and methodically sighting in your pins, you transform your sight into a reliable aiming tool. The small time investment during setup pays huge dividends in performance, especially during hunts or competitions.
If you found this guide helpful, try it with your own bow this weekend. Document your adjustments, groupings, and results. I’d love to hear your experiences — leave a comment below sharing your bow model, sight type, and how much your accuracy improved after following this method.
Also, check out our related posts on arrow tuning, rest alignment, and shooting form to elevate your full setup. Happy shooting, and may your groups tighten at every yardage!
